Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement for Toyota Camry 2014 (Possibly Same for Similar Years)

While I am not a professional mechanic, knowledge, and experience from seemingly random things could inform other things we will do later, so if you can, learn and do a little more maintenance on your car. Over time, it could save you money, but in the short term, it might not if you buy (borrow if you can) some basic tools. The biggest advantage is you are doing and learning something different - in your own time - by yourself.

Changing your motor/engine oil might be a simpler start, but this is what I have, so it is what I can share for the moment. I wrote this primarily as my guide for myself and my kids eventually, synthesizing information from multiple sources to ensure I do not miss important steps. The steps are mostly similar for the front and rear axle, but note that pads and rotors for the front and rear are different (part numbers), so make sure you have the correct parts. This is best as a video, but later.

Disclaimer: The information provided in this guide on basic automotive maintenance is intended for general knowledge and educational purposes only. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and completeness of the information, the instructions may not cover all possible situations or conditions.

By following these instructions, you acknowledge that automotive maintenance involves inherent risks and hazards, including but not limited to personal injury, property damage, and other unforeseen outcomes. Consult a professional mechanic or automotive technician for advice tailored to your vehicle and circumstances.

I shall not be held liable for any injury, damage, or loss that may occur due to following the instructions provided. Based on this guide, you assume full responsibility for your actions and any consequences that may arise from performing automotive maintenance. Use this information at your own risk.

Quick Reference

  • Time Required: 2-3 hours per axle (4-6 hours total)
  • Difficulty: Intermediate
  • Tools Needed: ~15 items (see complete list below)
  • Parts: Front and rear brake pads and rotors have different part numbers

Safety Reminders - IMPORTANT

  • Ensure household members know you are working on your car/garage and set expectations.
  • Dress accordingly (closed-toe shoes, pants, and long sleeves ideal, no jewelry or loose clothing)
  • Ensure there is enough lighting and ventilation (air circulation)
  • Wear personal protective equipment - gloves, mask, goggles (even with some discomfort, they are worth your safety/life - if it’s too hot, then maybe pick another time/day)
  • When raising a car using a car jack (research more if unsure about details)
    • Chock the opposing wheels accordingly.
    • Use correct/recommended jack points.
    • Ensure its contact with the car jack points is centered (and doesn’t slip)
    • Use jack stands (although you will not go under the car for brake replacement, stands are safer than relying on jacks only)
    • Once raised and on stands, push the car reasonably to confirm that it does not move or slip with a little push.
  • Read other work safety reminders applicable to any car work/garage work, including but not limited to
    • Have a first aid kit available nearby.
    • fire extinguisher in the garage (no fires expected on this task, but always a good idea)

Tools and Materials

Essential Tools

  • 14mm socket + ratchet
  • 8mm wrench
  • Brake bleeding bottle (zip tie at hose end to tighten if needed)
  • Caliper hanger (yellow ideal for visibility)
  • C-clamp or brake pad spreader (spreader recommended to save struggle)
  • Torque wrench
  • Brake pad thickness gauge

Lubricants and Chemicals

  • Silicon grease
  • Synthetic grease
  • Anti-seize compound
  • Brake parts cleaner

Cleaning Supplies

  • Wire brush and drill abrasives
  • Cotton swab sticks
  • Drain pan
  • Wipes/rags

Wheel Removal Equipment

  • Floor jack and jack stands
  • Breaker bar
  • Impact driver + 21mm impact socket

Optional Tools

  • Soft mallet (to loosen stuck parts)
  • Cobra pliers (to grab/pull)
  • Dial indicator (for runout measurement)

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Preparation and Safety

1. Wear gloves for protection throughout the process. 2. Loosen lug nuts using the breaker bar (break the torque) slightly before raising the wheels, but keep them on. If no breaker bar is available, use sufficient force, throw your weight, or use a mallet to loosen. 3. Raise the axle and fully remove the wheels. 4. Wear mask and goggles (enclosed type to minimize dust, not just projectiles).

2. Inspection and Assessment

Before replacing, inspect first and confirm it needs replacement: Measure brake pad thickness using a thickness gauge (through the caliper window if possible, or after removing the caliper):

  • If within recommended specs, no replacement needed (typically check again in 6 months)

Measure rotor thickness using a caliper and compare with the minimum thickness (engraved on the rotor between the hub and outer circumference - you may need to brush away dust to see it):

  • If still within specs, it can be resurfaced later when replacing pads
  • Rotors are relatively cheap nowadays, but resurfacing is an option
  • Recommend having a shop resurface rather than DIY

If confirmed to need replacement, proceed with the steps below.

3. Caliper Removal and Preparation

1. Unscrew the caliper (14mm) and hang in the suspension coil 2. Clean the caliper body:

  • Gently wire brush the caliper body (avoid getting dust on the boot)
  • Clean folds of caliper piston boot gently (so buildup doesn’t go back when pushed in)
  • Ensure the boot is flat (not ballooned up); if ballooned, release the air with a gentle pop using a small flat screwdriver 3. Compress the caliper:
  • Prepare drain pan, remove bleeder cover (set aside securely)
  • Attach brake bleeder and open valve (8mm)
  • Compress caliper (c-clamp + old pad or something smooth/flat, or use pad spreader)
  • Close off the bleeder valve and put the back cover 4. Apply lubrication:
  • Apply synthetic (or silicon) grease on the contact points of the caliper (boot face and other side/arm)

4. Bracket Removal and Cleaning

1. Remove bracket completely (14mm) - use breaker bar if needed. 2. Clean bracket (in open air):

  • Wipe down
  • Test if the pins move freely (baseline)
  • Remove one pin at a time - Note: Keep track of upper vs lower pins (do not mix up)
  • Clean out old grease and thinly lube with silicone grease, then reinstall
  • Ensure pins move freely
  • Note pad orientation and remove pads
  • Remove fittings and clean the area with a wire brush (if tight, file carefully)
  • Reinstall fittings and gently brush them (should be snug but not require forcing)
  • Thinly lubricate the exposed side of the fittings
  • Transfer shims from old pad to new pad if applicable
  • Test fit the pad to ensure it moves freely

5. Rotor Removal and Hub Preparation

1. Release parking brake 2. Remove the rotor:

  • Do not force it (use 8 x 1.25mm bolts to push through special holes in the rotor if needed)
  • Be gentle, especially at the rear since parking brakes are there 3. Clean hub:
  • Gently remove dirt/rust that will cause rotor runout (use wire brush or abrasive on drill)
  • Avoid causing dents or gouges

6. Rotor Installation

1. Clean new rotor with brake cleaner and wipe down 2. Apply anti-seize to the hub 3. Install rotor - measure runout if you have a dial indicator

7. Reassembly

1. Install bracket (14mm):

  • Torque: Front = 79 ft-lb, Rear = 58 ft-lb 2. Install pads on the bracket 3. Lubricate pads:
  • Apply oil/synthetic grease to back (outside) of pads (contacts with piston/caliper)
  • Important: The inside must NOT be lubricated 4. Install brake pad pins (if applicable):
  • Clamp the pads with your hands, then install
  • The pins meet in the middle
  • Keep holding while putting the caliper back on 5. Install caliper:
  • Torque: Front = 25 ft-lb, Rear = 20 ft-lb 6. Remove caliper hanger

8. Final Steps

1. Bleed brake fluid to ensure no air in brake lines (repeat twice to be safe) 2. Pump the brake pedal until it engages 3. Reinstall the wheel:

  • Torque = 76 ft-lb 4. Repeat for other brakes/tires 5. Review and top off brake fluid if needed 6. Test drive:
  • Very careful brake test drive
  • Test regular brake and parking brake (on incline)

Parking Brake Maintenance (Rear)

For rear rotors with parking brake behind the rotor:

1. Remove rubber plug:

  • Orient the rubber plug at the bottom
  • Slowly pull while twisting left 2. Clean parking brake with brake cleaner if needed 3. Reinstall: Ensure the plug hole aligns with the rotor plug hole
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